Three Bites: Budino - PHOENIX magazine

2022-09-19 10:11:42 By : Mr. Daniel Sun

Pudding on the Ritz Once again, the Italians vastly improve a high-dairy-fat dessert favorite. We present: budino. Chocolate Olive Oil Budino with Pistachio Crackerjack at Lon's. Photography by Angelina Aragon

LON’s at The Hermosa Inn 5532 N. Palo Cristi Rd., Paradise Valley 602-955-7878, hermosainn.com Pudding checks all the boxes of a great comfort food: sensual, nostalgic and eminently satisfying. Enter budino, pudding’s richer and heartier Italian cousin. At LON’s, pastry chef Nundi Harris makes her chocolate olive oil budino with pistachio “crackerjack” ($13, pictured) the traditional way (whipped egg yolks, sugar, cream and chocolate), but updates the garnish – toffee popcorn laced with caramel and roasted bits of pistachios tickled with sea salt. Then she adds a scoop of house-made popcorn ice cream drizzled with fragrant chocolate olive oil. It’s a creamy combo that turns a classic on its head. “The presentation is playful. I like to make desserts that make you feel at home or remember something from your childhood,” Harris says. Fat Ox 6316 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale 480-307-6900, ilovefatox.com At Fat Ox, the kitchen whips up a butterscotch budino ($10) that chef/owner Matt Carter says is a more modern take on the dessert. Rather than thickening the pudding with eggs or gelatin, Carter uses kappa, a seaweed thickener that provides a silky, even consistency, along with cream, sugar, vanilla paste and melted butterscotch chips. With a layer of whipped cream crowned by crumbled house-made butter cookies for texture, this sweet, golden-hued delight is refreshing after a satiating Italian dinner. Carter is a big fan of budino and has always offered variations of the velvety pudding, from lemon and chocolate to hazelnut and praline, at his restaurants. “Name a flavor and you can make a budino out of it.” His favorite? Butterscotch. Hush Public House 14202 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale 480-758-5172, hushpublichouse.com When chef/owner Dominic Ruggiero first put together the Hush Public House menu, he wanted to include a dessert for chocolate lovers, so he fashioned a chocolate budino ($11) that has since become a menu mainstay. Hush’s approach is conventional – egg yolks, sugar and corn starch with a mix of milk and dark French Valrhona chocolate to add a luxurious touch. The kitchen lines the bottom of a Mason jar with house-made chocolate cookie crumbs, then adds the budino and tops off the whole affair with freshly whipped cream, shaved dark chocolate, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of French sea salt. The servers offer guests this pro tip: Scoop all the way through the jar to taste all three layers at once. “That’s the ideal bite,” Ruggiero says. We agree.

Once again, the Italians vastly improve a high-dairy-fat dessert favorite. We present: budino.

LON’s at The Hermosa Inn 5532 N. Palo Cristi Rd., Paradise Valley 602-955-7878, hermosainn.com

Pudding checks all the boxes of a great comfort food: sensual, nostalgic and eminently satisfying. Enter budino, pudding’s richer and heartier Italian cousin. At LON’s, pastry chef Nundi Harris makes her chocolate olive oil budino with pistachio “crackerjack” ($13, pictured) the traditional way (whipped egg yolks, sugar, cream and chocolate), but updates the garnish – toffee popcorn laced with caramel and roasted bits of pistachios tickled with sea salt. Then she adds a scoop of house-made popcorn ice cream drizzled with fragrant chocolate olive oil. It’s a creamy combo that turns a classic on its head. “The presentation is playful. I like to make desserts that make you feel at home or remember something from your childhood,” Harris says.

Fat Ox 6316 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale 480-307-6900, ilovefatox.com

At Fat Ox, the kitchen whips up a butterscotch budino ($10) that chef/owner Matt Carter says is a more modern take on the dessert. Rather than thickening the pudding with eggs or gelatin, Carter uses kappa, a seaweed thickener that provides a silky, even consistency, along with cream, sugar, vanilla paste and melted butterscotch chips. With a layer of whipped cream crowned by crumbled house-made butter cookies for texture, this sweet, golden-hued delight is refreshing after a satiating Italian dinner. Carter is a big fan of budino and has always offered variations of the velvety pudding, from lemon and chocolate to hazelnut and praline, at his restaurants. “Name a flavor and you can make a budino out of it.” His favorite? Butterscotch.

Hush Public House 14202 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale 480-758-5172, hushpublichouse.com

When chef/owner Dominic Ruggiero first put together the Hush Public House menu, he wanted to include a dessert for chocolate lovers, so he fashioned a chocolate budino ($11) that has since become a menu mainstay. Hush’s approach is conventional – egg yolks, sugar and corn starch with a mix of milk and dark French Valrhona chocolate to add a luxurious touch. The kitchen lines the bottom of a Mason jar with house-made chocolate cookie crumbs, then adds the budino and tops off the whole affair with freshly whipped cream, shaved dark chocolate, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of French sea salt. The servers offer guests this pro tip: Scoop all the way through the jar to taste all three layers at once. “That’s the ideal bite,” Ruggiero says. We agree.

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