Greek cuisine: A kitchen odyssey; Appreciating Greek cuisine and its unique foods and flavors with Donna Frawley

2022-09-19 10:15:41 By : Mr. Angus Yan

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Midland resident Donna Frawley poses with a finished spanakopita, or Greek spinach pie, in her kitchen on Sept. 8, 2022 in Midland.

Midland resident Donna Frawley makes Greek food in her kitchen on Sept. 8, 2022 in Midland.

Midland resident Donna Frawley butters phyllo dough sheets in her kitchen on Sept. 8, 2022 in Midland. she is using the dough to make spanakopita, or Greek spinach pie.

Midland resident Donna Frawley mixes syrup in her kitchen on Sept. 8, 2022 in Midland. The syrup is for a Greek dish called Baklava.

A piece of spanakopita, or Greek spinach pie, sits in Donna Frawley's kitchen on Sept. 8, 2022 in Midland.

Midland resident Donna Frawley makes Greek food in her kitchen on Sept. 8, 2022 in Midland.

Midland resident Donna Frawley pours syrup onto a Greek dish called Baklava. on Sept. 8, 2022 in Midland.

A Greek pastry dish called Baklava sits in Donna Frawley's kitchen on Sept. 8, 2022 in Midland.

Donna Frawley's book, "100 Ways to Make a Difference – Creating Ripples of Love for a Lasting Legacy", is available for purchase on her website, or at a book signing event from 2-5 p.m. on Saturday, Aug. 13 at 4613 Lund Drive in Midland.

When I was growing up, we had very few meals that were considered “ethnic” except for the German meals stemming from my mother’s background – she was 100% German. We did, however, have Chinese take-out maybe once a year.

After I married my husband, Nile, we gradually added different cuisines to our diet. Since Nile was raised in California, where tacos were frequently on the menu, we had tacos about once a month, which was not as often as he would have liked. We would have had them more often if it hadn't been so much work to cut up all of the toppings (this was before the food processor). Even though he helped, it was a lot of work after a full day of teaching junior high students how to cook.

In 1981 (I know this specific date because my middle daughter was two weeks old – it was her first outing), we went to the Greek Festival in Saginaw for the first time. Nile was working with George Kallos, a Greek man who gave him some tickets for the event. We tried all the foods and fell in love with the variety of flavors and textures of what they served. The festive atmosphere, of course, added to our overall enjoyment. I bought one of their cookbooks so I could try making some of the dishes we enjoyed.

A few years later, my mother-in-law gave me a handwritten recipe card for spanakopita (Greek spinach pie). I have made some adaptations to the original recipe since I received that card, so now I can make it just the way we like it every time. We have also in the past purchased gyro kits which would come with the shaved lamb, pita bread and tzatziki sauce, and we would just add lettuce, tomato and cucumber and enjoy our own taste of Greece.

A few years ago on a visit in California, Nile and I visited a wonderful Greek restaurant for dinner. Everything was so good I said “yum” all the way through dinner. When we returned to his brother’s house, I made spanakopita and baklava. I had never made baklava before, thinking it was so difficult. It was not difficult at all, and we all thoroughly enjoyed the entire meal. The Greek salad was also a hit. We used fresh greens, tomatoes, cucumber, kalamata olives, feta cheese, green onions and a light vinaigrette dressing.

Although Greece is a Mediterranean country, it has its own unique foods and flavors. Native olive trees produce olive oil which is a must-have for Greek cooking. Olive oil is 100% fat, but it is a beneficial fat which is cholesterol free and is high in monounsaturated fat. Olive oil is simply pressed out of olives. There are four kinds of olive oils:

Extra-virgin olive oil is produced from the first pressing of olives, which makes it the purest and the best tasting. It's best used as an accent to dishes like drizzled over bruschetta or in dressings and vinaigrettes. Cold pressed means the olives are pressed with no heat added or even at a low temperature. This is the highest quality of olive oils. This is an entirely natural product and is more expensive to produce, but it is much better tasting than lower grades. It provides all of the health benefits that are associated with olive oil.

Virgin olive oil isn’t blended with other oils but has a higher acidity. It is perfect for garnishing, but has less flavor than extra-virgin olive oil.

Pure olive oil or olive oil is a blend of refined pomace oil and virgin olive oil. Pomace is produced by processing the leftovers of the virgin olive oil extraction. This is cheaper to produce. It doesn’t have as strong a flavor as virgin olive oils and is best suited for frying and cooking.

Light olive oil isn’t lower in fat, it means the oil is made from refined olive oil. If you see a bottle labeled 100% pure olive oil, it often is of the lowest quality and lighter in flavor. This is not an olive oil classification, however. They are mixes generally of 90-95% refined and/or pomace with 5-10% virgin oil. Some packers even mix in seed, soybean, hazelnut or other oils.

When reading the label on olive oil, if it comes from European countries, it will tell you where it's from. DOP (Denominazione d’Origine protetta) is from Italy or the European Union. AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controlee) designates French olive oil. DO (Denominacion de Origen) is on olive oil from Spain.

If your label has these designations, they generally are considered to be a better olive oil.

Now let’s talk about Greek food. Moussaka may be the most recognized Greek food. It's made up of layers of eggplant and spiced meat filling with a creamy béchamel topping which is then baked. Tiropites uses phyllo pastry sheets that are filled with a mixture of Greek cheeses and folded in triangles, sealing the cheese inside and then baked. Baklava also uses the phyllo pastry sheets layered with ground or finely chopped nuts mixed with cinnamon and a sauce of water, sugar, honey and vanilla spooned over the top after baking.

The Greek cuisine also uses lamb in several ways – Souvlakia which is lamb that is marinated and roasted or grilled on skewers. Pressed lamb is shaved and put in gyro pita sandwiches with tzatziki sauce, a cold cucumber, yogurt sauce. There are also Saganaki – a fried cheese appetizer – and dolmades which are stuffed grape leaves served cold or at room temperature.

These are just a few of the wonderful Greek flavors you can enjoy cooking and/or eating.

This is served as an appetizer and is served cold or at room temperature. The folding of the grape leaf around the rice stuffing is a little tricky at first, but I am sure you will get the hang of it. Makes about 50.

1 – 16 ounce jar grape leaves, drained and rinsed or use fresh – see note below

Yogurt cucumber sauce (recipe below)

To prepare bottled grape leaves, rinse well under cold water to remove the brine. Place them in a colander back side up to drain (shiny side up). Keep in colander until ready to fill.

To use fresh grape leaves, pick them from wild grape vines in the spring while they are still tender. Choose young whole leaves that are medium in size. 1 1/2 pounds of fresh leaves are equivalent to one 16-ounce jar. Using a scissors, cut off the stems and either soak in very hot water for 15 minutes to soften or blanch the leaves in boiling water for only a minute. After blanching, they can be frozen between layers of plastic wrap and will keep in the freezer for a year. Using a slotted spoon, remove the leaves from the water and lay them on paper towels to drain. With a sharp knife or scissors, cut out the protruding stems and any hard veins from the leaves. Set the grape leaves aside. Domesticated grape leaves are thick and tough and should not be used. If you turn a grape leaf over and look at the under-side and it is white, it is a domesticated grape leaf and should not be used.

Warm water – enough to cover currants

Juice of 1 freshly squeezed lemon

2 tablespoons finely chopped dillweed or mint leaves, fresh

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley leaves, fresh

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Soak currants in warm water for approximately 15 to 20 minutes; drain and set aside.

To make the stuffing, heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add pine nuts; stir and cook the pine nuts for about 2 minutes or until they are golden brown. In a medium saucepan put currants, pine nuts, onion, white rice, sugar, cinnamon, and hot water; stir the mixture, cover the pot, and cook gently for approximately 15-20 minutes or until the water has been absorbed. Remove from heat and stir in the lemon juice, dill weed, and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Let the stuffing cool for 30-40 minutes before stuffing the prepared grape leaves.

To stuff the leaves, start with the largest leaves. Take a leaf and carefully spread it on a flat surface (a plate works well) with the veins facing upward (shiny side down). If the leaf is torn or has a hole in it, take a reserved damaged leaf and use it as a patch and place it over the hole (this is so the filling won’t leak out). Place 1-2 tablespoons of rice stuffing near the stem end of the leaf (judge the amount of filling for the size of the leaf). Press the stuffing into a small sausage-like shape. Fold the stem end of the leaf over the filling, then fold both sides toward the middle to seal the ends, and then roll up into a cigar shape (it should be snug but not overly tight because the rice will swell once it is fully cooked and could burst). The rolls should be cylindrical (about 2 inches long and 1/2 inch thick). Squeeze lightly in the palm of your hand to secure the rolls.

Repeat with the remaining grape leaves and filling.

Spray the bottom of a 9x13-inch pan or an oven proof Dutch oven and then line it with some of the remaining grape leaves.  Arrange the stuffed grape rolls on top of the leaves, seam-side down, packing them fairly close together, leaving about 1/4 inch between them. When the bottom is completely covered, place more grape leaves over the top and do a second layer covering with more grape leaves. Pour the 2 cups boiling water, olive oil, and lemon juice over them. Weigh the stuffed grapes rolls down with a shallow ovenproof dish or pan turned upside down (one smaller than the size of the pan). This keeps the grape leaves from opening. Cover the baking dish with a lid. Place baking dish to the oven and cook approximately 45-60 minutes or until the grape rolls are tender and the water has been absorbed. There should be little or no trace of water, and only a bit of oil in the pan. Remove from oven.

Transfer the stuffed grape rolls to a serving dish. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Serve chilled or at room temperature, garnished with lemon wedges. Serve with yogurt cucumber sauce.

3/4 teaspoon dried dill weed or 3/4 tablespoon fresh

In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients. Cover and refrigerate. Allow flavors to blend for 2-3 hours before serving.

GREEK SALAD (Salata) from “Foods of Greece”

2 large heads of lettuce, chopped or equal amounts of mixed greens (about 12 cups)

1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and sliced

6 green onions, thinly sliced including green tops

1 green pepper, seeded and thinly sliced

1 cup feta cheese, crumbled (about 1/4 pound)

1 cup Kalamata olives (or black olives)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Combine the ingredients for the dressing in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Shake vigorously and refrigerate until needed. This dressing will improve if the flavors have time to develop and blend.

Rub a salad bowl with the garlic and discard the clove. Put the bowl in the freezer for a few minutes, while you prepare the remaining ingredients. Combine the vegetables, cheese and olives in the chilled bowl, pour on the dressing, sprinkle with salt, pepper and oregano and toss. Garnish the salad with anchovies and serve immediately.

This tasty sauce/dip is served throughout Greece and the recipe may vary. It is usually made with pureed baked potatoes, however sometimes it has bread crumbs and/or ground nuts. It always has garlic, olive oil, lemon juice or vinegar and usually parsley. Add any herb that you like. Anyway you make it, it is addictive; it is served with raw or grilled vegetables, bread, meat, poultry, and seafood. This is from my friend Susan Belsinger.

3 to 4 slices stale bread, torn into small pieces

About 1/2 cup finely chopped walnuts or almonds

About 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Juice of 1 lemon or 2 to 3 tablespoon red wine vinegar

Soak the bread in a little water to moisten and squeeze dry. Pound the bread in a mortar with a pestle along with the garlic. Add the nuts and pound; add a little oil if necessary. Add the potato and pound until it is a paste. Drizzle the olive oil in very slowly, as you continue pounding. Once you have the right consistency, stir in the lemon juice and salt. Taste for seasoning and adjust.

If using a blender, you will need to do this in thirds. Combine one-third the bread, garlic, nuts, potato and olive oil. Blend until smooth. Add the next third and repeat, stirring if necessary. Add the final third with the lemon juice or vinegar and salt and repeat the process. Cover and refrigerate for about an hour before serving. Remove from the fridge and cool to room temperature before serving. This will keep in the fridge for 2-3 days.

I use 1/2 cup butter and instead of putting it between every sheet, I put down two sheets of phyllo at a time and spread the butter with a pastry brush. Use fresh or dried herbs, but of course, fresh is better.                                       

2 cups crumbled feta cheese (12 ounces)

1 tablespoon fresh basil, chopped or 1/2 tablespoon dried basil

1 1/2 teaspoon fresh oregano, chopped or 3/4 teaspoon dried oregano

1 tablespoon fresh dill or 1 teaspoon dried dill

3 tablespoons fresh parsley or 1 tablespoon dried parsley

Salt and pepper to taste

1 package phyllo pastry (1 box has 2 packages – use one for spanakopita, the other for Baklava)

Sauté onions in 3 tablespoons butter. Add spinach which has been cooked in the microwave and squeezed fairly dry. Combine all ingredients in a large bowl EXCEPT PHYLLO AND 1 CUP BUTTER. Place 8 layers of phyllo into 9 X 13” pan, brushing butter between each layer (as from above I put down 2 layers and then butter). Add filling, then put 8 more layers of phyllo on top of filling, brushing butter between each layer. Bake at 375º for 45 minutes. 

I used this recipe for our family dinner. The comments were very positive. Those that thought Baklava was too, too sweet, thought this was just perfect. The recipe that follows is half of the original recipe which I made in a 9 X 9-inch square pan. It was plenty. I cut it into between 15 to 20 pieces.

1 package (1/2 of the box) phyllo dough

Preheat oven to 350° F. Butter the bottom and sides of a 9 inch square pan.

Chop nuts and toss with cinnamon. Set aside. Unroll phyllo dough. Cut the stack in half. Cover with a dampened terry towel to keep it from drying out while you work. Place two sheets of phyllo in the pan and spread butter thoroughly. Repeat this three more times until you have eight sheets of phyllo in the pan. Sprinkle 2-3 tablespoons of nut mixture on top of the phyllo. Top with 2 more sheets, butter and sprinkle with 2-3 tablespoons nut mixture. Continue with two sheets and then nuts until you have 6-8 sheets of phyllo remaining and have used up all of the nut mixture. Use the last 6-8 sheets, using two at a time then butter, finishing it off on the top with butter. Using a sharp knife, cut into diamond shapes all the way to the bottom of the pan. You may find it helpful to cut into 4 long rows and then cut them diagonally. Bake for 45-50 minutes until the baklava is golden and crisp.

While the baklava is baking, make the sauce. In a small saucepan bring to a boil water and sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add vanilla and honey, stir in and simmer for about 20 minutes. Remove baklava from the oven and immediately spoon the sauce over the top, making sure that some of the sauce touches each piece. Let the baklava cool and serve.  Leave it uncovered so it won’t get soggy.

Donna Frawley is the owner of Frawley's Fine Herbary and author of "The Herbal Breads Cookbook," "Our Favorite Recipes" and "Edible Flowers Book." She also has her own DVD "Cooking with Herbs" and a weekly newsletter. She can be reached at 989-488-0170, frawleyherbs@yahoo.com or www.frawleysfineherbary.com