S tore cupboard ingredients have always been useful, but they were never sexy. You may think of bland beans in gloopy sauce, or that ancient can of tuna that lurks in perpetuity at the back of the shelf. That is until now.

Jarred things and tinned things preserved in oil, vinegar or syrup have undergone a majestic makeover. Instead of being boring staples to be eaten begrudgingly, they’re now must-have items — whoever does the PR for tinned fish deserves a pay rise — demonstrating your true passion for cooking, with exotic contents and price tags to match.

These days, if you’re trying to emulate, say, Yotam Ottolenghi, why would you settle for a cheap tin of beans when the restaurateur tells you that he favours

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